Fon‑Cé Brings Contemporary Latin American Cuisine to Taipei Under Chef Leo’s Vision
When popular Thai home‑style restaurant Baan Taipei closed in January, Taipei’s vibrant dining scene mourned the loss. But the space quickly found new life with Fon‑Cé, a fine‑dining restaurant led by Leonardo “Leo” Fonseca Celis, a Colombian chef bringing the soulful essence of Latin America to Taiwan.
Chef Leo: A Journey from Engineering to Culinary Artistry
Chef Leo isn’t new to Taipei—he first introduced his innovative style during a pop‑up in May 2024. At age 35, he transitioned from aspiring mechanical engineer to culinary visionary following the sudden loss of his father at 18. Cooking became both passion and survival. He taught himself through food TV, later enrolling in culinary school, and after graduating, boldly applying to top-ranked restaurants worldwide.
He earned a coveted position at Noma—where he and Chef Richie (now co-founder of MMHG Group) became fast friends. Over late-night prep sessions, they bonded over dreams and Leo’s stories of Colombian flavors, dreaming of one day sharing them in a real restaurant. That dream took root in Taipei.
“Fon‑Cé is the pact between two friends who met in Noma’s kitchen—sharing dreams and talking about the flavors of Colombia, a world both strange and enchanting to me,” Chef Richie said.
A Career Marked by Excellence and Innovation
Leo’s resume is defined by culinary excellence:
- Noma, Copenhagen (from 2013): Foundation in avant-garde Nordic cuisine.
- Central, Lima & Disfrutar, Barcelona: Contributed to their rise to #1 on the World’s 50 Best list (2023 & 2024).
- El Chato, Bogotá (2015): As head chef, he helped elevate it into Latin America’s top tier.
- Hiša Franko, Slovenia (2018): Rose to executive chef under Michelin‑starred Ana Roš.
- JAZ by Ana Roš (from 2022): Led this acclaimed wine bar.
By late 2023, Leo began a global pop‑up journey—visiting Milan, London, Bangkok, and finally Taipei. Mesmerized by the city’s spirit and openness, he knew this was where his debut solo restaurant would anchor.
Fon‑Cé: A Story of Home, Emotion, and Generosity
Named after both his parents (“Fon” and “Celis”), Fon‑Cé is far more than a restaurant for Chef Leo—it’s a heartfelt tribute to his family and life’s turning points. For guests, Chef Leo promises more than food:
“We want people to leave feeling joyful, relaxed—even healed. Fon‑Cé is a place to slow down and feel genuinely cared for.”
A Taiwanese–Latin Fusion of Flavors
Many in Taipei know little about Latin American food beyond names like empanadas. Even Michelin‑starred ZEA offers only a glimpse of the flavors from the Americas. Chef Leo leans into diversity—a nod to South America’s vast landscapes, from Colombia’s tropical coasts to Argentina’s southern plains and Andean elevations.
His debut six‑course tasting menu, “Senda” (“path” in Spanish), is his culinary roadmap—introducing diners to Latin America through Taiwanese ingredients, reimagined via his modern lens. Over 90% of ingredients are sourced locally, reflecting both cultural exchange and environmental respect.
Highlights from the Menu
- Tuna Bone Marrow, Watercress, Kiwi Water, Pear
Reminiscent of Colombian oysters, this dish uses salmon bone marrow prepared in a Mexican‑style ceviche. The silky marrow, served like a natural shot, reveals surprises of acidity, fruitiness, and oceanic depth. - Spanish Pork Shoulder, Lemongrass Sauce, Lentil Ragout
A mixed‑texture feast: succulent pork shavings with fried pig’s ear, accompanied by rice topped with lentil stew. The dish pays homage to Colombia’s rice tradition and Lebanese‑style lentil soup.
Emerging Taiwan’s First Truly Contemporary Latin Fine‑Dining Experience
Fon‑Cé marks a bold step in Taipei’s fine‑dining landscape. It brings a sophisticated narrative—a Colombian chef’s emotional journey, refined through global experience, expressed through dishes grounded in Taiwanese terroir.
Chef Leo’s dream is realized: to invite diners on a cross‑Continental “path of flavors”, linking Colombia to Taiwan, art to soul. Fon‑Cé isn’t just a new restaurant—it’s a heartfelt home where every plate is served with love, history, and joy.
